CIVIC4G.COM Menu header

Hi, New guy :P

New here? Tell us who you are!

Hi, New guy :P

Postby r4BBiT » Fri Jul 25, 2008 6:41 pm

Hi everyone,

I'm Maciek, I live in Kitchener, Ontario. Is there anyone else from KW area on? I got my 91 dx hatch with dpfi d15b2 about two months ago. I've been reading this forum for about week now and I can say that there is a lot of useful info here. For now I am just trying to make it more reliable and safe. So far I replaced front rotors and pads, rear driver parking cable and almost whole drum assembly (except shoes) on the same side.
Last weekend i got SI cluster gauge and both horns (free :P) from local junkyard :) (hurray i have a tach now). Currently I am doing body work, started about a month ago, i had to redo whole rocker panel on driver side and part of passenger side, there is a lot of rust spots (typical honda spots), so its taking really long time. I got some pics at home I can post, right now I am working ;)

Looks like this will become my project car, it really needs a lot of work, I am planning to do all the work myself. I am impressed with this little car and its mileage (its funny, i always used to hate civics :P)

I am having problem with my oil level, it keeps dropping and I have to refill oil quite often. It is really strange, because I don't see it leaking anywhere and I don't think it burning oil, since exhaust fumes are clear. I changed the oil and oil filter myself and I am wondering if I did something wrong. Any ideas?

Maciek
Image
Image
Image
Image
and many more :P
r4BBiT
L4 - Forced Induction
L4 - Forced Induction
 
Posts: 738
Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:15 pm
Location: Waterloo, Ontario

Hi, New guy :P

Postby Sandman » Fri Jul 25, 2008 7:13 pm

Welcome to the forum. ;)
Stand up and fight!
1988 Civic HB 1.6i-16(D16A9) R63 "Rio Red" Member ride topic
1989 Civic 4D 1.6i (D16A7) Asturias Gray Metallic Member ride topic
1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500
User avatar
Sandman
Global Moderator
Global Moderator
 
Posts: 5049
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2003 9:00 am
Location: Turku Finland

Hi, New guy :P

Postby 90hatch268 » Fri Jul 25, 2008 8:27 pm

welcome, we already have a rabbittho
here it is :rabbit: lol
good luck on the project. bodywork is fun. :roll:
i know what ur goin through, check out my writeup and youll se what im talkin about.
Image
User avatar
90hatch268
Global Moderator
Global Moderator
 
Posts: 6132
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 5:45 pm
Location: Oklafornia

Hi, New guy :P

Postby siR in progress » Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:48 pm

kitchener waterloo bitchass
im about 3 hours from you i guess,if you fly down the 401


welcome!
siR anyone?
siR in progress
L6 - Race Bred
L6 - Race Bred
 
Posts: 2578
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 4:33 am
Location: Peterborough Ontario

Hi, New guy :P

Postby el_jelly » Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:50 am

Welcome r4 and congrats for starting with the right thing: making the car more reliable and safer and trying to do the work yourself :) .

The oil level problem, how often you need to add more? If there is no oil in the floor and the car is not smoking then the oil is probably leaking very high in the engine (valve cover, head, distributor, etc.) then it's burned on the surface and you barely can see it. I recommend you to inspect the rear of the engine for leaks.
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)

Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread
User avatar
el_jelly
L6 - Race Bred
L6 - Race Bred
 
Posts: 7748
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2002 3:27 am
Location: Puerto Rico

Hi, New guy :P

Postby r4BBiT » Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:58 pm

"el_jelly" wrote:The oil level problem, how often you need to add more? If there is no oil in the floor and the car is not smoking then the oil is probably leaking very high in the engine (valve cover, head, distributor, etc.) then it's burned on the surface and you barely can see it. I recommend you to inspect the rear of the engine for leaks.


I've checked the engine in the back and found out that oil filter was loose and thats were the leak was. Exactly like you said, oil would burn and turn into black grease so it never got a chance to drip. Problem solved tho. Thanks for the help.

Anyways here is some pics.

Before anything happen (maybe just washed and cleaned :P):
Image
Image
Image
Image

Some body work pics (first whole, first time doing bodywork myself). I fully restored a 250cm3 bike, but i got my dad to do the parts that are visible. Im thinking about doing the whole car sometimes later on, maybe march break :) Its not perfect but its good enough for now.

Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

And my new gauge cluster and and factory clock (for $10 on ebay).
Image
Image

And some more body work (gotta love the rust :():
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Last night i took the bumper off to get to those stupid license plate lights (they are not working and its all rusted) and found more rust. All the screws are rusted and philips, ive tried coke and vinegar to eat the rust little bit from screws head, any other ideas?
Image
Image
Image

On a happier note, i got some floor mats, looks a lot cleaner now
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
and many more :P
r4BBiT
L4 - Forced Induction
L4 - Forced Induction
 
Posts: 738
Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:15 pm
Location: Waterloo, Ontario

Hi, New guy :P

Postby el_jelly » Sun Jul 27, 2008 9:58 pm

glad you solved that oil problem, you could have get into more problems leaking oil through the filter.

for being the first time you do bodywork you did it great :wink: . Most of that places are the common spots for rust on this cars. Front fenders and under them are also another common place.

:thumbup:
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)

Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread
User avatar
el_jelly
L6 - Race Bred
L6 - Race Bred
 
Posts: 7748
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2002 3:27 am
Location: Puerto Rico

Hi, New guy :P

Postby 90hatch268 » Sun Jul 27, 2008 10:14 pm

just to make sure, you are sanding off ALL the rust before bondoing over right? and you should also sand down to bare metal wherever bondo is goin to touch, if you smear bondo over paint, its may not grab ahold of it that great and either bubble up of crack/fall off :wink:
Image
User avatar
90hatch268
Global Moderator
Global Moderator
 
Posts: 6132
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 5:45 pm
Location: Oklafornia

Hi, New guy :P

Postby el_jelly » Sun Jul 27, 2008 10:17 pm

what can be done in that hard to reach areas where is really difficult to sand? Is there acid or something like that can be poured and remove the rust before applying bondo? :?
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)

Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread
User avatar
el_jelly
L6 - Race Bred
L6 - Race Bred
 
Posts: 7748
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2002 3:27 am
Location: Puerto Rico

Hi, New guy :P

Postby 90hatch268 » Sun Jul 27, 2008 10:20 pm

everyplace can be sanded, which palces u talkin about? if the reust is deep then sandblast the rust off :wink:
also invest in some finishing/spot/metal (whatever you wanna call it) glaze. it will get rid of the pinholes bondo leaves and will make it look more like metal.
Image
User avatar
90hatch268
Global Moderator
Global Moderator
 
Posts: 6132
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 5:45 pm
Location: Oklafornia

Hi, New guy :P

Postby el_jelly » Sun Jul 27, 2008 10:25 pm

OK. Sometimes it seems really difficult to remove all the rust I see in some cars.
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)

Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread
User avatar
el_jelly
L6 - Race Bred
L6 - Race Bred
 
Posts: 7748
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2002 3:27 am
Location: Puerto Rico

Hi, New guy :P

Postby r4BBiT » Mon Jul 28, 2008 2:20 pm

"90hatch268" wrote:everyplace can be sanded, which palces u talkin about? if the reust is deep then sandblast the rust off :wink:
also invest in some finishing/spot/metal (whatever you wanna call it) glaze. it will get rid of the pinholes bondo leaves and will make it look more like metal.


Thanks for the advice, I will try that glaze. The first whole i covered got some of those pin holes. I read that you can use primer sealer to get rid of those. Which is better to use?
Image
Image
Image
Image
and many more :P
r4BBiT
L4 - Forced Induction
L4 - Forced Induction
 
Posts: 738
Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:15 pm
Location: Waterloo, Ontario

Hi, New guy :P

Postby 90hatch268 » Mon Jul 28, 2008 7:14 pm

primer sealer? your probably thinking of filler primer, and that can hid the little tiny ones that you cant see till you paint. primer should really only be used to cover bare metal or bondo before paint. trust me, glaze it the way to go. you dont use a lot, just enough to cover where the bondo is, then sand down to where it looks like your bondo has chicken pox.
Image
User avatar
90hatch268
Global Moderator
Global Moderator
 
Posts: 6132
Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 5:45 pm
Location: Oklafornia

Hi, New guy :P

Postby el_jelly » Mon Jul 28, 2008 7:56 pm

any particular brand of that glaze?
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)

Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread
User avatar
el_jelly
L6 - Race Bred
L6 - Race Bred
 
Posts: 7748
Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2002 3:27 am
Location: Puerto Rico

Hi, New guy :P

Postby r4BBiT » Mon Jul 28, 2008 8:07 pm

"90hatch268" wrote:primer sealer? your probably thinking of filler primer, and that can hid the little tiny ones that you cant see till you paint. primer should really only be used to cover bare metal or bondo before paint. trust me, glaze it the way to go. you dont use a lot, just enough to cover where the bondo is, then sand down to where it looks like your bondo has chicken pox.


Yeah, i ment filler primer, cant think today, its monday :P I will try it, can you recommend any?
Image
Image
Image
Image
and many more :P
r4BBiT
L4 - Forced Induction
L4 - Forced Induction
 
Posts: 738
Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 2:15 pm
Location: Waterloo, Ontario

Next

Return to Who-Is-Who

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests