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ZERO compression, still driveable?

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ZERO compression, still driveable?

Postby squeek485 » Fri Aug 12, 2016 10:07 pm

I have a 1990 standard hatch with the D15B1 that has had the MPFI swap done. I've owned the car for about 2 years now and just recently it has been misfiring real bad. it first started while on the interstate heading across town and I noticed that my car all of the sudden sounded like a Subaru... (cool, but not really.) upon further inspection I saw that my distributor cap had cracked. No problem, I got a new one the next day and when I took the old one off I saw a screw chillin at the bottom of the cap. that screw apparently holds the rotor in place. i replaced the rotor (and screw), and the cap, but the misfire was still there. so i looked at the plugs. they were crap so i replaced those too. no change. i've checked the plug wires to make sure there is spark, and there is. ive narrowed the misfire to the #2 cylinder and thought perhaps it was the injectors. i swapped injector #2 and #1 around, no change. ive swapped the wires for the connectors around, no change. ive swapped the actual connectors around, no change. i do know that the piston rings are not the greatest cause it would smoke pretty good if i got on it. ive done a compression test and the #2 cylinder has absolutely ZERO compression. and #1 only had 50 psi. i didn't even bother with the other two cylinders cause i was pretty disgusted with what i saw so far. i don't know a whole lot about these engines, but... would the engine still run with ZERO compression? i would think that it wouldn't start. the weird thing is, i live 10 miles away from my job and this is my only car... so i have to drive it like this. it takes a minute to get it up to speed, but it'll get me to where i need to be. the past couple of days, my check engine light has popped on with a code 8 and 16. 8 = Top Dead Center sensor and 16 = injector. i have a new distributor on order cause i was told the only way to replace the TDC sensor is by replacing the whole distributor. my question, i guess, is could it be possible that when that screw got caught up in the rotation of the distributor rotor, could it have fucked up the ignition timing and that's why im getting a misfire? or is it the fact that ive got such bad or no compression in two cylinders? By the way, i forgot to say that no matter what i do, swapping injectors, plugs, wires, ect... that #2 cylinder does not fire at all. anyone have any idea as to what i should be looking for? ive pretty much convinced myself that it could be a head gasket.. but again, wouldn't that cause the engine to not start? thanks for any info
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Re: ZERO compression, still driveable?

Postby kspraker » Sat Aug 20, 2016 4:30 pm

Not really as you have 3 other cylinders for it run on. Pop the head off and see what you have to work with. You should be able to do it in a weekend.
1991 DX Hatch - bone stock - well not the stereo - but the rest is!!
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