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r4BBiT
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Post by r4BBiT »

Hi everyone,

I'm Maciek, I live in Kitchener, Ontario. Is there anyone else from KW area on? I got my 91 dx hatch with dpfi d15b2 about two months ago. I've been reading this forum for about week now and I can say that there is a lot of useful info here. For now I am just trying to make it more reliable and safe. So far I replaced front rotors and pads, rear driver parking cable and almost whole drum assembly (except shoes) on the same side.
Last weekend i got SI cluster gauge and both horns (free :P) from local junkyard :) (hurray i have a tach now). Currently I am doing body work, started about a month ago, i had to redo whole rocker panel on driver side and part of passenger side, there is a lot of rust spots (typical honda spots), so its taking really long time. I got some pics at home I can post, right now I am working ;)

Looks like this will become my project car, it really needs a lot of work, I am planning to do all the work myself. I am impressed with this little car and its mileage (its funny, i always used to hate civics :P)

I am having problem with my oil level, it keeps dropping and I have to refill oil quite often. It is really strange, because I don't see it leaking anywhere and I don't think it burning oil, since exhaust fumes are clear. I changed the oil and oil filter myself and I am wondering if I did something wrong. Any ideas?

Maciek
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Sandman
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Post by Sandman »

Welcome to the forum. ;)
Stand up and fight!
1988 Civic HB 1.6i-16(D16A9) R63 "Rio Red" Member ride topic
1989 Civic 4D 1.6i (D16A7) Asturias Gray Metallic(sold)
2015 Accord Sport Business
1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500

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90hatch268
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Post by 90hatch268 »

welcome, we already have a rabbittho
here it is :rabbit: lol
good luck on the project. bodywork is fun. :roll:
i know what ur goin through, check out my writeup and youll se what im talkin about.
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siR in progress
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Post by siR in progress »

kitchener waterloo bitchass
im about 3 hours from you i guess,if you fly down the 401


welcome!
siR anyone?

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el_jelly
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Post by el_jelly »

Welcome r4 and congrats for starting with the right thing: making the car more reliable and safer and trying to do the work yourself :) .

The oil level problem, how often you need to add more? If there is no oil in the floor and the car is not smoking then the oil is probably leaking very high in the engine (valve cover, head, distributor, etc.) then it's burned on the surface and you barely can see it. I recommend you to inspect the rear of the engine for leaks.
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)
Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread

r4BBiT
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Post by r4BBiT »

"el_jelly" wrote:The oil level problem, how often you need to add more? If there is no oil in the floor and the car is not smoking then the oil is probably leaking very high in the engine (valve cover, head, distributor, etc.) then it's burned on the surface and you barely can see it. I recommend you to inspect the rear of the engine for leaks.


I've checked the engine in the back and found out that oil filter was loose and thats were the leak was. Exactly like you said, oil would burn and turn into black grease so it never got a chance to drip. Problem solved tho. Thanks for the help.

Anyways here is some pics.

Before anything happen (maybe just washed and cleaned :P):
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Some body work pics (first whole, first time doing bodywork myself). I fully restored a 250cm3 bike, but i got my dad to do the parts that are visible. Im thinking about doing the whole car sometimes later on, maybe march break :) Its not perfect but its good enough for now.

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And my new gauge cluster and and factory clock (for $10 on ebay).
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And some more body work (gotta love the rust :():
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Last night i took the bumper off to get to those stupid license plate lights (they are not working and its all rusted) and found more rust. All the screws are rusted and philips, ive tried coke and vinegar to eat the rust little bit from screws head, any other ideas?
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On a happier note, i got some floor mats, looks a lot cleaner now
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and many more :P

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el_jelly
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Post by el_jelly »

glad you solved that oil problem, you could have get into more problems leaking oil through the filter.

for being the first time you do bodywork you did it great :wink: . Most of that places are the common spots for rust on this cars. Front fenders and under them are also another common place.

:thumbup:
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)
Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread

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90hatch268
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Post by 90hatch268 »

just to make sure, you are sanding off ALL the rust before bondoing over right? and you should also sand down to bare metal wherever bondo is goin to touch, if you smear bondo over paint, its may not grab ahold of it that great and either bubble up of crack/fall off :wink:
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el_jelly
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Post by el_jelly »

what can be done in that hard to reach areas where is really difficult to sand? Is there acid or something like that can be poured and remove the rust before applying bondo? :?
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)
Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread

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90hatch268
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Post by 90hatch268 »

everyplace can be sanded, which palces u talkin about? if the reust is deep then sandblast the rust off :wink:
also invest in some finishing/spot/metal (whatever you wanna call it) glaze. it will get rid of the pinholes bondo leaves and will make it look more like metal.
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el_jelly
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Post by el_jelly »

OK. Sometimes it seems really difficult to remove all the rust I see in some cars.
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)
Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread

r4BBiT
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Post by r4BBiT »

"90hatch268" wrote:everyplace can be sanded, which palces u talkin about? if the reust is deep then sandblast the rust off :wink:
also invest in some finishing/spot/metal (whatever you wanna call it) glaze. it will get rid of the pinholes bondo leaves and will make it look more like metal.


Thanks for the advice, I will try that glaze. The first whole i covered got some of those pin holes. I read that you can use primer sealer to get rid of those. Which is better to use?
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90hatch268
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Post by 90hatch268 »

primer sealer? your probably thinking of filler primer, and that can hid the little tiny ones that you cant see till you paint. primer should really only be used to cover bare metal or bondo before paint. trust me, glaze it the way to go. you dont use a lot, just enough to cover where the bondo is, then sand down to where it looks like your bondo has chicken pox.
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el_jelly
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Post by el_jelly »

any particular brand of that glaze?
IHeartMySTD wrote: We all know we like our women and cars with D's, not B's!!!! ;)
Where most of the questions are already answered > Engine swap guide, FAQs and Index thread

r4BBiT
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Hi, New guy :P

Post by r4BBiT »

"90hatch268" wrote:primer sealer? your probably thinking of filler primer, and that can hid the little tiny ones that you cant see till you paint. primer should really only be used to cover bare metal or bondo before paint. trust me, glaze it the way to go. you dont use a lot, just enough to cover where the bondo is, then sand down to where it looks like your bondo has chicken pox.


Yeah, i ment filler primer, cant think today, its monday :P I will try it, can you recommend any?
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